Showing posts with label beer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beer. Show all posts

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Midtfyns Bryghus at Amundsen

On Thursday August 23, 2012, Erik Nielsen and Eddie Szweda of Midtfyns Bryghus visited the brewpub Amundsen Bryggeri & Spiseri in Oslo, to brew a special beer and give a beer tasting. This blog post is a brief summary of that eventful day and night.

Midtfyns Bryghus at Amundsen in Oslo.

Midtfyns Bryghus
Midtfyns Bryghus was founded in late 2004 in Brobyværk, on the island of Funen (Fyn) in Denmark. The first beer was released in March of the following year, but the brewery struggled to make a profit - hardly selling for a million Danish crowns in its first year of operation. It wasn't until Eddie Szweda took over the reins in November 2006 that things started to get better for the small brewery.

Eddie Szweda is a US expat who is married to a Danish woman and has lived in Denmark for the last 19 years, speaking the language fluently. When he took over the brewery, he changed the way Midtfyns Bryghus brewed their beers and completely revamped the beer lineup, introducing a number of exciting new beer styles. Over the next few years, Midtfyns Bryghus would consistenly be named one of the top craft breweries in Denmark, and they've won the "Årets ølnyhed" (best new beer of the year) competition, hosted by the Danish Beer Enthusiasts, three times:

- For 2007 with Midtfyns Imperial Stout
- For 2009 with Midtfyns Chili Tripel
- For 2010 with Midtfyns Rough Snuff

No other Danish brewery has won this competition three times.

Brewing Rough Snuff
Rough Snuff is a remarkable beer, in many ways. It was originally created by home brewer Erik Nielsen and made with real snuff (snus). Eddie Szweda got to taste it and liked the beer so much that he asked Erik to brew a full batch at Midtfyns Bryghus, which he duly did. And it turned out really well. However, shortly after being voted the best new beer in 2010, Rough Snuff was banned by the Danish authorities because it was brewed with real snuff, which is illegal according to EU regulations. Thus, a Rough Snuff II was created, brewed without the use of snuff, and this is the beer you'll find in most beer shops and bars today - not the long gone original.

Tom Alfred Øimo and Erik Nielsen brewing up to something
This legal business was the reason why Erik Nielsen and Eddie Szweda decided to make a trip across Skagerak and visit Oslo in August 2012 - to brew Rough Snuff according to the original recipe, in a non EU country. That latter part is crucial here, the beer in itself is illegal to brew in the European Union, but it can be brewed elsewhere and still be sold within the EU.

On August 23, the brewer at Amundsen, Tom Alfred Øimo, opened up his 500 litre brewhouse to welcome Erik Nielsen for a memorable Rough Snuff brewing session. Using real snuff. This batch should be ready in time for the Oslo Ølfestival in early October, but it will not be bottled only sold from keg.

Erik Nielsen, by the way, now has his own contract brewery, Ø-Bryg.

Beer Tasting
Eddie Szweda is an experienced beer tasting leader, according to beerticker.dk he holds some 160 beer tastings annually and has so far had more than 10 thousand people at his tastings! So, it was only natural to add a beer tasting event to the program at Amundsen. Thus, with Rough Snuff fermenting happily a few feet away, some fourty guests turned up for the Midtfyns Bryghus beer tasting at 7 o'clock.

Eddie Szweda of Midtfyns Bryghus

The plan was to taste five different beers, three from keg and two from bottle, but because two of the kegs had gone bad we ended up with only one beer on keg - the Wasabi and Ginger pale ale - plus an extra beer on bottle, the Gleipner:

  • Midtfyns American Pale Ale with Wasabi and Ginger (5.9% pale ale)
  • Midtfyns Ale (6.5% ESb)
  • Midtfyns Chili Triple (9.3% abbey tripel)
  • Midtfyns / De Molen X Porter (8% imperial porter)
  • Midtfyns Gleipner (9.2% black ipa)
  • Midtfyns Barley Wine (10%)

For some reason or other, the largely Norwegian audience felt more comfortable with English, so despite being fluent in Danish - a sister language to Norwegian - Eddie Szweda held the beer tasting in English but with Danish terms liberally used throughout. He started by telling us about the brewery, that Midtfyns Bryghus makes batches of 800-1100 litre and that all of their bottles have been manually filled and capped. At most they can bottle 9,000 bottles per week. That's craft brewing for you!

Another thing he was very proud of was the beer brewed for the 100 year anniversary of the Danish Blind Socity. It was a brown ale which came in bottles with blank labels, they carried not text whatsover. Except for braille. Thus, a normal seeing could not tell what kind of beer it was, only a blind with knowledge of braille!

Midtfyns Wasabi and Ginger Pale Ale
The beer tasting started with a brand new beer, the American Pale Ale with Wasabi and Ginger. Eddie Szweda got the idea for this beer while enjoying a meal of sushi with a tasteless Japanese lager, which didn't really stand up to the food. After playing around with some ingredients he ended up with a mildly hopped American pale ale, spiced with wasabi and ginger.

The beer poured a cloudy orange color with a white head. It had a mild spicy aroma, with a green apple fruitiness and hints of ginger. It had a nice, light mouthfeel with a soft carbonation. The taste was fruity too, with a mild ginger flavor and some herbal spiciness. The wasabi added a mild hot touch at the very end, but very subtle. This is a surprisingly balanced and good ale, and it does go really well with sushi.

As for the other beers at the tasting, Midtfyns Ale, Gleipner and Barley Wine were of the more average kind, but still pleasant to drink. The highlights for me, in addition to the wasabi and ginger pale ale, were the Chili Tripel and the X Porter.

The Chili Tripel is an awesome abbey tripel, with all the right fruits and yeasty spices but with a surprisingly warm touch from the chili at the very end. The high alcohol is well concealed making this a very drinkable beer. Eddie Szweda told us that the Chili Tripel is their best selling beer, accounting for 22% of Midtfyns' annual sales.

The X Porter, originally made with dutch brewer Menno Olivier from Bouwerij de Molen, after the Copenhagen Beer Festival 2010, is a silky smooth imperial porter with a lovely "dark aroma" of roasted malts, licorice and chocolate and a rich taste of coffee, cocoa and mild caramel. It's a rich and delicious beer. 

At the end of the night, Eddie Szweda walked around answering questions and asking what people thought of the various beers he had presented during the tasting. I can safely say I had a great time, enjoying some excellent beers from Midtfyns.

Thank you very much to Amundsen, Beer Enthusiast, Erik Nielsen and Eddie Szweda for making this a great night!


More photos from the brewing session and beer tasting can be found at Flickr.

Monday, July 30, 2012

Norwegian beer festivals

That the beer revolution is well under way in Norway is beyond doubt, the last few years have seen a number of small scale breweries start up all over the country, the major cities have witnessed an explosion of good beer bars and brewpubs (see Oslo Beer City for an illustration), beer tastings and beer maker's dinners are hosted frequently and, what this post is about, a number of great beer festivals have started up or will debut this fall.

True, we have had beer festivals for a number of years, but of the tasteless kind (pun intended), sponsored by the big lager breweries competing for recognition and higher market shares by releasing cool looking brands which taste exactly the same as all their other beers - nothing. No, the type of festival I'm referring to is of a new kind, where small scale breweries present a wide selection of beer styles to an audience interested in exploring new flavors. That's what a beer festival should be all about, not cool posters or fancy packaging.

Head brewer Jens Maudal of HaandBryggeriet
- at the 2008 beer festival at Parkteatret 

The first beer festival

The first serious beer festival in Oslo (and in Norway, that I'm aware of) took place on the last Saturday in September 2008, outside Parkteatret at Grünerløkka. Only one brewery attended, HaandBryggeriet, but it was the first time anyone in Oslo had been treated to Norwegian craft beer on tap.

And what a debut it was! HaandBryggeriet had brought along kegs of Dobbel Dose and Dark Force - their two strongest beers at the time - in addition to a number of bottled types. Everything sold out in a few hours. The event was a big success, with lots of visitors getting their first taste of craft beer. This pointed the way to a brighter future for draft beer in Oslo and for beer festivals in general.

The early years 2009-2011

In 2009, another important beer festival started up - the biannual Ølfestival at Nærbø. Nærbø is a small community on Jæren in Rogaland county on the south west coast of Norway, and it was the local beer club - Nærbø ølklubb - that came up with the idea to arrange a festival there. I didn't go so I don't know which breweries attended, but the festival seems to have gone really well since it was held again in 2011.

2010 saw the first Cask Ale Festival arranged in Norway. Hosted by the Håndverkerstuene beer restaurant in Oslo, this 2-day festival in mid September showcased cask conditioned ales from Norwegian breweries Nøgne Ø, Ægir and HaandBryggeriet, but also from the then far less known Scottish brewery BrewDog! The festival ended with an amazing beer maker's dinner, where one beer from each brewery was paired with a dish.

In 2011, in addition to Nærbø Ølfestival (where Nøgne Ø, Ægir and Danish brewery Midtfyns attended, see report here) and Grünerløkka mat- & mikrobrygg, a new festival started at the luxurious Aker Brygge in Oslo: Oslo Ølfestival. This was a more high profile festival with ten breweries attending, both the large ones - such as Ringnes and Hansa Borg - but also some smaller breweries such as Nøgne Ø, Ægir and the Amundsen Bryggeri & Spiseri brewpub.

2012 - the year of the beer festivals

If 2009-2011 were promising years for beer festivals in Norway, 2012 will be a watershed year changing our perception of beer festivals forever. Both with respect to what a beer festival should be like and how many you can arrange in a small country like Norway.

The standout festival so far in 2012 was the awesome Haand Craft Beer Festival held at the new HaandBryggeriet brewery in Drammen, on May 4 and 5.

Arranged after the same mold as Alvinne Craft Beer Festival in Belgium and Borefts in the Netherlands, Haand 2012 was attended by some of the most exciting craft breweries in Europe - from Nøgne Ø and Kinn in Norway, to Närke from Sweden, Magic Rock from England, LoverBeer from Italy, Alvinne from Belgium and Emelisse and De Molen from the Netherlands. Many of the brewers stood behind the taps, serving beers and talking with their visitors. Combined with delicious beer food and a big outdoor beer tent, it was simply perfect. And a massive success.

Närke Kulturbryggeri at Haand Craft Beer Festival 2012.

Though we may already have had the best festival of the year and even have the 2012 Caskfestival behind us, there are still some very interesting festivals coming up this fall. Including two brand new ones.

Let's take a closer look at the remaining festivals of 2012.

Kongsberg Ølfestival

Honestly, Kongsberg is not the place I would expect a good beer festival to show up. Still, this small town is famous for its annual Kongsberg Jazzfestival, hosted here since 1964, so they sure know how to arrange big festivals. 

For the very first food & beer festival, hosted at Christians Kjeller, they've got a very nice line-up, offering guests a choice of 200 different beers! The food is of the short traveled type, prepared upstairs at Restaurant Opsalhgården.

Dates: 10 & 11 August 2012
Location: Christians Kjeller, Kirkegata 10 in Kongsberg
Hours: 16-20 (Friday), 12-20 (Saturday)
Entrance: Free
Attending breweries:

  1. HaandBryggeriet (Drammen)
  2. Kinn Bryggeri (Florø)
  3. Lervig Aktiebryggeri (Stavanger)
  4. Schouskjelleren Mikrobryggeri (Oslo)
  5. Nøgne Ø - Det Kompromissløse Bryggeri (Grimstad)
  6. Aass (Drammen)

Aass is actually a big lager brewery, but it's still independent and family owned. Founded in Drammen in 1834, Aass is the oldest brewery in existence in Norway and the brewery has some decent pilsner and vienna style lagers, even a bock, in their portfolio. Still, the most interesting beers at the festival will come from the first five breweries.

Note that Schouskjelleren will not have their own stand, among the breweries, but will take over all the taps in the bar.

Grünerløkka mat- og mikrobrygg festival

This year will mark the 5th anniversary of this great food & beer festival, first arranged outside Parkteatret in September 2008 but since then in the backyard of Café Vespa, just north of Sofienbergparken in Oslo.

The festival is arranged by Grünerløkka Brygghus, which is owned by Mr Grünerløkka - Jan Vardøen - who usually stands behind a large grill, barbecuing selfmade and tasty sausages. Last year the festival also had a stand from Den Blinde Ku, selling great artisan cheese.

Dates: 24 & 25 August 2012
Location: Københavngata 4, in the backyard of Café Vespa
Hours: 16-23 (Friday) and 13-23 (Saturday)
Entrance: Free
Attending breweries:

  1. Amundsen Bryggeri & Spiseri (Oslo)
  2. Nøgne Ø - Det Kompromissløse Bryggeri (Grimstad)
  3. Ægir Bryggeri (Flåm)

At this point (July 30) these are the known breweries, but more will probably be added over the next couple of weeks. For later updates check out the festival's own Facebook event: http://www.facebook.com/events/415083568513025/

Grünerløkka mat- og mikrobrygg 2012
- official festival poster

Bergen Ølfestival

Bergen has a flourishing beer scene with some of the best beer pubs in Norway (e.g. Henrik øl & vinstove, Baran Café and Hanne på Høyden), and a number of very good and active homebrewers and beer bloggers. They really deserve their own beer festival. Now they've got it! 

Bergen Ølfestival will be arranged for the very first time this September, with the best Norwegian breweries attending. If you find yourself somewhere on the Norwegian west coast in early September, do make a visit to Bergen and its brand new beer festival.

Dates: 7 & 8 September 2012
Location: Bryggen, Bergen
Hours: 12-20 (both days)
Entrance: Free
Attending breweries:

  1. HaandBryggeriet (Drammen)
  2. Kinn Bryggeri (Florø)
  3. Lervig Aktiebryggeri (Stavanger)
  4. Nøgne Ø - Det Kompromissløse Bryggeri (Grimstad)
  5. Ægir Bryggeri (Flåm)
This is a nice cross section of east, south and west Norway that should really impress visitors to the festival. For more and updated information, check out their Facebook group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/389315764457145/

Oslo Ølfestival

This is a high profile festival hosted at the luxurious Aker Brygge area in Oslo, with the two major Norwegian breweries - Ringnes and Hansa Borg - involved. Last year, when the festival was first held, the organizers had still found space for some of the smaller breweries too, such as Ægir, Nøgne Ø and Amundsen, so even a serious beer lover could find good beers at the festival.

This year some 28 bars, pubs and restaurants at Aker Brygge and the neighboring Tjuvholmen - for instance Beer Palace and Bar1 - are involved in the festival, in one way or another, but the main focus for beer seems to be at the ØlMesse tent where you'll get beer tasters, can meet and talk to brewers and listen to talks about beer and brewing.

Dates: 4-6 October 2012
Location: Aker Brygge and Tjuvholmen in Oslo
Hours: 15-20 (Thursday & Friday), 13-20 (Saturday)
Entrance: Kr 150,- to the ØlMesse tent, which includes 5 tasters.
Attending breweries:

In addition to these breweries, Cask Norway will attend to promote their imported beers - such as BrewDog from Scotland.

Concluding remarks

As if all these beer festivals weren't enough to give people a taste of good beer, many other types of festivals, in particular music related, have started inviting breweries to provide good draft beer to their visitors.

A few months ago the brewmaster from Mack in Tromsø, Rune Lennart Andreassen, was asked to brew a special festival beer for Buktafestivalen - a local music festival - and ended up making a 900 liter batch of pale ale flavored with fresh ginger.

Schouskjelleren Mikrobryggeri in Oslo sold their own beer at the June 29+30 Kollen music festival in Holmenkollen and will sell beer at the upcoming Øyafestivalen music festival on August 7-11.

The days are long gone when festival goers would be satisfied with a tasteless lager, in 2012 quality beer has broken through in so many arenas - challenging the domain of the lager giants.

Keep those craft beer taps flowing.

Monday, June 18, 2012

Oslo Beer City

Five years ago I would have laughed at such a preposterous title, three years ago I would have called it a nice dream and even two years ago found it hard to believe. Still, in the last couple of years the Norwegian capital has been the stage of a breathtaking beer boom, rivalling that of other emerging beer havens around the world. This post is my own recollection of the rapid changes that has and still is taking place in Oslo, ending with an overview of the current beer scene.

Oslo Rådhus (the City Hall) in February 2008.
- at this time Oslo had a no beer scene.

Year Zero: 2007 - a dead city

Though Oslo has witnessed the appearance of a few good beer places earlier, those places were either A) ahead of their time or B) quickly degenerated into boredom. The former was the case with Gambrinus Bar in Prinsens gate which in the 1990s served 35 beers on draft, a lot of it from Belgium, before having to close its doors. An example of the latter is our very first brewpub, Oslo Mikrobryggeri, which opened up at Majorstuen as long ago as 1989. For a few years they provided students and beer interested people with our first taste of Porter, Stout and their take on California Common - the Steamer. But eventually the founding fathers left and their beers lost character - for the last 15 years they have all tasted the same, the only difference being the color. The brewpub is still there, but its ales are just as bland as industrial lagers.

Christmas beer from E. C. Dahls @ Beer Palace 2008.
Another place which held some promise in the early 2000s was the Beer Palace. Located at Aker Brygge, it sported a nice selection of Belgian ales - in particular Trappist. They had a large blackboard behind the bar listing the "new ales of the month", one month it could be English, another American. As the years went by, the frequency of new beers dropped and the people working there showed less and less enthusiasm about beer. It seems they were a victim of being ahead of time too, since most guests still wanted their usual "halvliter" (a generic term for half a liter of lager).

In 2007, the beer scene in Oslo was basically non-existing. You could go to Beer Palace and with some luck convince the bartender that they had a certain beer you wanted to try, and then enjoy that while watching everyone else down their lagers. Or you could hang out at Bar & Cigar, a small place next to the Court House that from time to time would get in something interesting on bottle and at least served fresh Czech pilsner on draft (Urquell for a while, then Budvar). If you craved good beer, the solution was to take a ferry to Copenhagen in Denmark or a train to Gothenburg in Sweden - two cities with a superior beer culture and a number of great beer bars.

In November 2007, something important took place though, something that would take a couple of years to mature and slowly change peoples perception of what was possible, beer wise, in Oslo: Olympen Mat & Vinhus, a restaurant in the Grønland district, opened up after a period of renovations. It had been bought by Nevzat Arikan who owns several restaurants around Oslo.

For the last few decades, Olympen or just Lompa, had been known for its shabby interior and the many alcoholics sitting around in the bar. It was not a place to bring your parents or girlfriend. After re-opening, the place was shiny and clean, with a brand new kitchen and large wooden tables. The alcoholics were gone, replaced by young and cheerful people. The focus of the new Lompa was on rustic, Norwegian food, served in healthy portions and at low prices. With the food, Lompa started out like every other restaurant in Oslo - they served wine. However, Lompa had hired a bright, young sommelier who knew that something was happening in the beer world. He managed to get hold of some quality beer to serve at Lompa.

Year 1: 2008 - something's brewing

When I made my first visit to the new Lompa, in the fall 2008, the people working there had no clue about beer. They had Nøgne Ø, HaandBryggeriet and some Belgian beers on the menu, but whatever I ordered they would always ask what kind of beer it was and in which type of glass it should be served. In this way, beer knowledgeable customers acted as mentors for the staff. From time to time we would even be asked about particular breweries and which beers they should start importing to Lompa, which gave us beer geeks a sense of influence and a connectedness we hadn't felt with other pubs before.

Nøgne Ø & Dugges Sahti @ Olympen 2008
And this worked really well for both parties, the beer geeks got more interesting beers coming in to Oslo and the confidence and beer knowledge of the Lompa staff grew with every new beer.

Some time in 2008, the people at Lompa must have realized that there was an untapped market for high quality beer. Thus, Lompa kept expanding its bottled beer selection and started getting in some really interesting stuff, never seen in Norway before, such as beer from Mikkeller, North Coast, Great Divide and Stone. It was still all on bottle though.

Some of the Norwegian brewers I spoke with at the time (other brewers have confirmed this later) talked about going from pub to pub, in the major Norwegian cities, asking in each pub if they would be interested in selling craft beer on draft. But all pub owners replied the same, that they didn't think they would be able to sell enough to keep the beer fresh. A few were brave enough to order a few bottles, to keep in a refrigerator, which could be brought out if asked for. This was a depressing situation, quality beers seemed destined to a future in bottles while the big lager producers controlled all taps.

In May, Bar & Cigar, by the Court House, decided to run a cask event. A cask of Nøgne Ø Saison was untapped and a group of eager beer enthusiasts managed to empty the 40 liter cask that same night. It was a surprising success so Bar & Cigar decided to do it again. However, the next three cask events didn't go that well for Bar & Cigar, who got stuck with old cask ale they couldn't sell. In addtion, the two breweries - Nøgne Ø and HaandBryggeriet - thought it too much work cleaning the returned casks and filling them up again. So, this first attempt at creating a cask ale tradition in Oslo silently died out over the summer.

HaandBryggeriet founder Jens Maudal serving Dark Force
- at Grünerløkka Øl & Mat festival in August 2008. 
In August 2008, I attended the very first craft beer festival in Oslo - the Grünerløkka Øl & Mat at Parkteateret. I guess you may find this stretching the difinition of a beer festival, since only one brewery attended, but it was a true festival and the stand of HaandBryggeriet showed the visitors what they had been missing in Oslo for years - a good selection of tasty draft and bottled beers. The brewers themselves were almost in shock, they had brought two bold draft beers with them, the 9% Dark Force imperial stout and the equally strong Dobbel Dose double ipa, and both sold out in a couple of hours!

To me, this was the proof that it would now be possible to sell something richer and stronger on draft in Oslo than regular 4.7% lager. I suspect that the brewers, bar owners and other guests at the festival felt much the same way, and a couple of months later, Nøgne Ø managed to convince a couple of pubs - Lompa and Beer Palace - that they should have a dedicated Nøgne Ø beer tower.

Quality craft beer had finally arrived on draft in Oslo!

Year 2: 2009 - the revolution gets underway

As we entered 2009, I still had the feeling that Oslo was a backwater when it came to beer culture and good beer bars. Yes, I could now enjoy Nøgne Ø on draft in Oslo, but usually the same beer at those places that had the black Nøgne Ø tower. And, yes, I could choose from perhaps a hundred different bottled beers at Lompa. But it still felt very limited, compared to the 30-something beer taps at Café Delirium in Gothenburg or compared to what I experienced on my beer journey to the US in the fall 2008, visiting great beer bars in Chicago, Seattle, Portland (OR) and San Francisco.

Fortunately, the seed for a better beer future had been sown.

In August, two new beer places opened up in Oslo - within a week of each other - the Håndverkerstuene beer restaurant and the beer bar Tilt.

Entrance to Håndverkerstuene in Oslo
- a world class beer restaurant.
Håndverkerstuene opened up in an old but finely restored restaurant across the street from Hotel Bristol. It was the first restaurant in Oslo to put beer suggestions, instead of wine, on the food menu. They opened up with 6 beer taps (two each of Nøgne Ø, HaandBryggeriet and Ægir) which was unheard of in Oslo at the time.

The man behind this food and beer concept was Amund P Arnesen, a former whisky expert and bartender at Dr Jekyll's Pub. With Håndverkerstuene he was aiming for a more mature audience than regular beer bars in Oslo, in particular people interested in great food combined with equally great beers.

Tilt, located next door to the Rockefeller concert hall, is a bar catering to a younger and more playful audience, with tables made out of old arcade games and an adjoining room full of various games. Like Håndverkerstuene, Tilt sports multiple beer taps, offering both Norwegian and foreign (Danish and Scottish) craft beer. In particular the beers from Ægir has sold really well at Tilt, more or less from day one.

Olympen responded to these challenges by increasing its own number of beer towers and adding even more bottles to the beer menu. Suddenly we had a minor beer war in Oslo, where new and old pubs competed for the attention of beer drinkers!

The beer revolution was finally under way, the Oslo beer scene changing from one month to the next. A year after tasting my first Norwegian craft beer on draft it was possible to go out in Oslo and enjoy half a dozen craft beers on draft, any night!

Year 3: 2010 - beer is the new wine


2010 was the year when I first felt that the emergence of a good beer scene in Oslo was inevitable, it had reached a critical mass and the momentum was high. Every day new people discovered that there were alternatives to lager, and even the old pubs - formerly rejecting craft beer - were coming around and started to sell more than just lager.

Oslo was finally following in the footsteps of cities like Copenhagen - beer was becoming the new wine that everyone was talking about!

The well stocked bar at Tilt

I started noticing new people, often young students, appearing in the good beer bars where I had been used to sitting almost alone. They would sit down in small groups, buy a bottle for sharing or ask what was on draft and slowly sip a new beer. Sometimes they would come over and ask what I was having and other times I would hint to them, as they stood at the bar exploring the growing menus, that if they felt brave they could try the Beer Geek Brunch Weasel or perhaps a Cantillon Gueuze.

In April, Håndverkerstuene hosted a beer event where James Watt of BrewDog came over from Scotland to present his brewery and talk the guests through a tasting of some of their beers. It was a huge success and something Håndverkerstuene would do again with other breweries.

That summer Olympen opened up its roof terrace with an additional 5 taps, bringing the total up to 11 craft beers on draft. There they served a number of great Danish micros, including Hornbeer, Beer Here and Amager Bryghus. What a summer that was, sitting out in the open air and enjoying a glass of Hornbeer Blonde or Beer Here Hopfix fresh from draft, before ending the evening with a Hornbeer Black Magic Woman also from draft!

The fall kicked off with a number of exciting beer events and happenings. In August the third Grünerløkka Øl & Mat festival saw the three major Norwegian micros - Nøgne Ø, HaandBryggeriet and Ægir - serve about ten different beers from draft. It was the best beer festival so far, Norwegian beer enthusiasts were overcome with joy.

Cask Ale Festival 2010 @ Håndverkerstuene

In September, Håndverkerstuene invited the public to the very first Cask Ale Festival in Oslo. BrewDog, Nøgne Ø, Ægir and HaandBryggeriet were all present with a large number of casks. This 2-day festival attracted both new and old beer lovers and the Beer Maker's Dinner, at the end of the second day, was a resounding success - with great food and beer pairing. It was on this occasion that Ægir first presented their delicious Natt Imperial Porter and its barrel aged sibling, the Lynchburg Natt.

As if this wasn't enough, the year ended with the opening of two great beer places - including the first new brewpub in twenty years - Grünerløkka Brygghus and Schouskjelleren Mikrobryggeri.

Despite its name, Grünerløkka Brygghus is not a brewpub, yet, but they have been talking about starting a brewery since before opening in 2010. They have a very good selection of draft beer, including the Kjell Pop single hop IPA house ale brewed for them at Nøgne Ø. They also have a big bottled beer menu and a very decent kitchen.

The other place, Schouskjelleren Mikrobryggeri, is a fully fledged brewpub established in the old cellar of Schous brewery, which was closed by Ringnes in 1981. It was bought up by Nevzat Arikan, the man behind Olympen, and beautifully restored with vaulted ceilings of brick stones and a bar which allows its guests a clear view of the brewery tanks. As they brew most weekdays, sweet wort and bitter hops are common smells when you walk down the stairs into the pub a late afternoon.

Year 4: 2011 - a world class beer scene


Five beer towers with ten taps at Håndverkerstuene in 2011
- Ægir, HaandBryggeriet, Nøgne Ø and two guest towers.
After having stayed closed for the Christmas holidays, Håndverkerstuene opened its doors to the public again at the beginning of January with a delayed Christmas present to all beer geeks: Two new beer towers with four taps, bringing the total up to 10 taps! And with imported kegs from the likes of Mikkeller, BrewDog, Stone Brewing, Great Divide and even Cantillon, it was a thrilling time to be a regular guest at Stuene - new beers would appear weekly, both on bottle and keg.

The dawn of the new year also saw Håndverkerstuene end up on a very respectable 30th place on the list of the world's Best Beer Restaurants 2011, published by RateBeer. It was the first time a place in Oslo had ended up on any kind of top list for beers, it highly deserved so because of its great kitchen and food and beer pairing.

At the same time, Schouskjelleren had expanded its initial draft beer line-up from 8 to 16 taps, which allowed them to always have 8 guest beers on draft in addition to 4-6 of their own. And what a range of guest beers! You would typically find beers from breweries such as Evil Twin, Mikkeller, Southern Tier, Thornbridge and Revelation Cat in addition to the Norwegian micros.

If Håndverkerstuene became a world class beer restaurant the year before, then Schouskjelleren became a world class brewpub in 2011. Headbrewer, John Hudson, would churn out new beers every week, going through fifty different recipes in the first year. Not all were great, but the best ones - such as Thunderbear Stout, Empress of India and Garden of Eden - were all delicious and very drinkable beers that quickly became regular fixtures on the draft menu. In addition to the draft beers, Schouskjelleren also has a very good bottle beer menu, with great sour ales from Cantillon and 3 Fonteinen.

Headbrewer John Hudson behind his 2 x 8 beer tap bar
- at Schouskjelleren Mikrobryggeri

The start of 2011 also saw the opening of a third brewpub in Oslo. Amundsen Bryggeri & Spiseri opened up in February, close to the City Hall, just off Stortingsgata. It's a spacious pub with a decent kitchen, serving lunch and dinners. Seated at their tables, the guests can enjoy the view of shiny copper tanks and brewing kettles behind glass windows. The pub also has a very good beer "cellar", containing rare bottles of Thomas Hardy's Ale, Rodenbach Grand Cru, Westvleteren 12 and Samuel Adams Utopia, just to mention a few. The bottled beer menu is really impressive, only rivalled by Lompa.

With so many new beer bars appearing on the scene, older places took notice and started shining up their beer menus too. Some places managed to contract the brewing of unique house ales for serving on draft, such as The Nighthawk Diner and Aku Aku Tiki Bar who both get their house ales brewed at Nøgne Ø - the Nighthawk Breakfast Brown and Aku Aku Lemongrass Ale respectively. Grünerløkka Brygghus already had a house ale from Nøgne Ø, but decided to get a second - Løkka Haust, brewed by Kinn.

Café Laundromat, which started up near Bislett sports arena in 2004, took an interest in selling beer to their guests and they now sell more Nøgne Ø on draft than any other pub in Norway! The old pub Den Gamle Major at Majorstuen installed beer towers and started selling Norwegian micros, the same happened at the whisky bar Dr Jekyll's in downtown.

Thus, visitors to Oslo now have a great selection of places and beers they can try.

2011 also witnessed the certification of the first Norwegian cicerone or beer sommelier, when the bar chef at Håndverkerstuene - Amund P Arnesen - returned with his diploma after examinations in England. The downside was that Håndverkerstuene had to make do without him from the autumn. And with him, the vital force that had created the Cask Ale Festival, Beer Maker's Dinner and the beer and food concept of the restaurant was gone. Today, Mr Arnesen makes up one half of the Beer Enthusiasts import company, importing beer to Norway from the US, England, Italy, Belgium and Denmark. The company is very active "spreading the gospel", by hosting beer tastings and dinners around the country.

Back in 2008, three other beer enthusiasts formed Ølakademiet to spread the knowledge of good beer. In the beginning they would run beer tastings at Beer Palace but in 2011 they moved to the newly renovated Akersberget restaurant, next to Gamle Aker Kirke. The growing popularity of their tastings, brew courses and beer dinners is a clear indication that the average Norwegian has discovered that there is more to beer than lager and more to food than wine.

Year 5: 2012 - consolidation


The rapid growth and the appearance of many new beer bars and brewpubs have slowed down slightly in 2012, it feels like a natural consolidation phase where brewers, bar owners and beer enthusiasts alike are trying to take stock of the changed landscape. And changed it is, three years ago you would barely find a good draft beer in Oslo - now you have a number of excellent beer bars, great beer restaurants and several new brewpubs with dozens of great draft beer.

But I don't think we've stopped growing yet. Another beer bar, Gaasa, opened up this May at Grünerløkka with four excellent beers on tap at any time and a nice beer garden out back. And some of the older places is set to rejoin the game, such as Beer Palace who will close their doors on August 1st for a 3 months renovation  - when they reopen in November both the downstairs and upstairs bars will have 30 lines of draft beer each!

View of the bar and brewery in the background
- at Amundsen Bryggeri & Spiseri
Another major event that has taken place this year, which has already changed how I plan my nights out in Oslo, was the launch of the AleHunt.com website. Run by local beer geeks, it lists all the beer bars in Oslo (and gradually in other Norwegian cities too), showing what each place has on draft as well as on bottle. The idea is that visitors to a pub can login with a cell phone app and add or remove beers, so that the beer list is as up to date as possible, giving others an idea of what to find where. Say, if I feel like having a special barley wine, then I search for the name of the beer and then get a list of which places I can find it. Or if I just want to find a place with some good beer on draft I can navigate from pub to pub until I find one with a selection I'm happy with. It's perfect, both for local beer geeks and for visiting beer tourists unfamiliar with the beer scene.

On October 1st the first proper indoor market place, Mathallen, will open up at Vulcan in Oslo. Here visitors will be able to sit down at cafés, to enjoy properly made coffee and cakes, or shop at small artisanal stalls where they can buy farmers produce, cheese or fresh fish. And there will be a microbrewery making and selling beer there. This place could become the start of a food revolutuion too, since nowadays most Norwegians buy pre-packaged industrial processed food items in cheap convenience stores.

In the longer term, the owner of Olympen and Schouskjelleren is working on an idea to revive a proper brewery in Oslo, the last one was Ringnes which closed down and moved out of Oslo in 2001. This will probably take a year or two but will surely enrich the beer scene further.

The beer scene in Oslo has never been this good and the future's looking so bright, you gotta wear shades!

Home made sausages and Evil Twin Soft Dookie
- at Håndverkerstuene beer restaurant.

June 2012 - the current beer scene


Here follows my highly subjective list of best beer places in Oslo, listed in alphabetical order (for different views and more places check out RateBeer's Oslo Beer Destinations).

Amundsen Bryggeri & Spiseri
Address: Stortingsgt 20 (entrance from Roald Amundsens gt), near City Hall
Opened: 17 February 2011
Type: Restaurant and brewpub
Taps: 20
Bottles: 100+
Amundsen was the third brewpub to open up in Oslo. Located very close to Karl Johan street, it gets its share of tourists so the sales ratio of good beers to bland lagers is very low. It's still a very nice place to visit, especially early in the day when you can sit in the bar. The kitchen is decent (go for the homemade burger), the draft beer selection is nice and the bottled menu great, in league with Olympen and Håndverkerstuene. My main issue with Amundsen is the lack of beer competent waiters, most of the people working there show no interest in the beer they've got and even if you point to the menu they may not be able to find the beer for you.

Bar & Cigar
Address: C. J. Hambros plass 2, near Oslo Tinghus (Court House)
Opened: 2001
Type: Beer & Whisky Bar
Taps: 2
Bottles: 20+
This is without a doubt the most conservative place in Oslo. You will always find the same people, drinking the same beers and talking about the same stuff. The owner, Ole Gunnar Hauso, is a big fan of Cuban Cigars and whisky so expect to find many likeminded out on the back porch, where smoking is allowed. The beer selection is small but decent, with about a twenty types on bottle and usually a good Norwegian craft beer and a Czech pilsner on draft. From time to time they will put on a really rare beer on draft, that nobody else has, and they also do whisky tastings here. Bar & Cigar was also the first place to do cask ales in Oslo, back in 2008. In summers you can enjoy your beer outside.

Beer Palace
Address: Holmens gate 3, Aker Brygge
Opened: 6 April 1993
Type: Beer bar
Taps: 10+
Bottles: 40+
This place, with one bar downstairs and one upstairs, has not changed much in 20 years (except for a modest expansion on the second floor ten years ago). It has a cozy interior with old brick walls (the building used to be an industrial workshop), fitted out with wooden tables and chairs, a few sofas and some heavy leather chairs. Outside one can either sit on a platform above the entrance or on the ground beside the pedestrian street. They still have a decent bottled beer menu and usually a nice draft beer from Nøgne Ø. The rest of the draft selection are industrial lagers or well-known Irish or English ales (Guinness, Red Speckled Hen etc). It can be rather noisy here on Fridays and weekends or when there's a sport event shown on the large screen upstairs. Beer Palace will close for renovations this fall and should open up with a total of 60 beer taps in November!

Café Laundromat
Address: Underhaugsveien 2, Bislett
Opened: 2004
Type: Laundromat café
Taps: 8
Bottles: 100+
This is a laundromat with a café section where you can sit down to enjoy some good food, coffee or beer as you wait for your clothes to get washed. Many also meet here, without doing laundry, because of the cozy atmosphere and excellent beer selection - especially bottled beers, but also a handful of draft beers, spanning from Nøgne Ø to Sam Adams and BrewDog. They serve breakfast from 7 am and in the summer you can sit outside in view of Bislett sports arena.

Den Gamle Major's Pub
Address: Bogstadveien 66, Majorstuen
Opened: 1921
Type: Beer bar
Taps: 3
Bottles: 30+
Gamle Major ("old major") is an institution at Majorstuen. Located just across Kirkeveien from the metro stop, named after the old major whos cabin once stood here and gave name to the area, this pub has been around since 1921. It used to look brown and dirty, and it still does from the outside, but the total renovation in 1999 has given this place a second life. And now they've also started taking beer seriously, offering good Norwegian craft beer on draft and a decent selection of bottled beers too.

Dr Jekyll's Pub
Address: Klingenberggata 4, by Saga kino
Opened: 2003
Type: Whisky bar
Taps: 2
Bottles: 30+
This is a whisky bar, located next door to Saga Kino. It's decorated like the working room of Dr Jekyll, a bit dark and gloomy, and with weird sounds and gargoyles in toilet stalls, which are hidden behind an artifical bookshelf - always a source of confusion for first-time visitors! This is where Amund P Arnesen first cut his teeth on craft beer before moving on to Håndverkerstuene in 2009. Today, the pub has two decent beer taps - usually one with Weihenstephaner and the other with Nøgne Ø or HaandBryggeriet. They also have a decent selection of bottled beer.

Grünerløkka Brygghus
Address: Thorvald Meyers Gate 30 B, Grünerløkka
Opened: 8 October 2010
Type: Gastropub
Taps: 15
Bottles: 50+
This is a very popular gastropub at Grünerløkka, perhaps too popular as it can be hard to find a place to sit on most nights. The place sports 15 taps, though about 4-5 are industrial beers, carrying beer from Kinn, Ægir, HaandBryggeriet and Nøgne Ø. They've got two house ales, brewed specially for them, the Kjell Pop Single Hop IPA brewed at Nøgne Ø and the Løkka Svarthumle Black IPA brewed at Kinn. There is also a good bottled beer menu and a very decent kitchen here. They run frequent beer tastings and brewing classes and every autumn they host the Grünerløkka Øl & Mat festival.

Gaasa
Address: Storgata 36
Opened: 19 May 2012
Type: Beer bar
Taps: 4
Bottles: 20+
Gaasa, Norwegian for "the goose", is the latest addition to the Oslo beer scene, opening up in May 2012 with four great craft beers on draft, including their own Gaasa house ale, brewed at Scouskjelleren. They also have a decent bottle menu, including Belgian sour ales. Gaasa has a rustic feel, they serve warm food and has nice courtyards to enjoy your beer outside.

Håndverkerstuene
Address: Rosenkrantzgate 7 (entrance from Kristian IV)
Opened: Reopened August 2009. Originally from the 1880s.
Type: Beer restaurant
Taps: 10
Bottles: 100+
The former Håndverkeren restaurant was bought by Thon Gruppen and renovated into a beer restaurant which reopened in the fall 2009. It sports a huge selection of bottled beers and ten quality draft beers, both Norwegian and foreign. It was the first restaurant in Oslo to put beer suggestions on the food menu and they got listed as one of the world's Best Beer Restaurants by RateBeer both in 2011 and 2012. It's a bit pricy, but the atmosphere is good and the beer and food excellent - you really can't complain about a place that regularly has Cantillon Gueuze or Kriek on draft! However, the beer knowledge took a nosedive when Amund P Arnesen left in 2011.

Olympen Mat & Vinhus
Address: Grønlandsleiret 15, Grønland
Opened: Reopened 3 November 2007. Originally from 1892.
Type: Beer restaurant
Taps: 6 + 5 upstairs
Bottles: 150+
This is one of Oslos traditional beer halls and it is only fitting that it was here that the modern beer revolution first took hold in Oslo. Olympen or Lompa has been a restaurant and beer hall since it first opened in 1892, but it was fairly rundown the last few decades of the 20th century. In the new millennium new owners closed and renovated Lompa and it's now a great place for food and beer, with healthy portions and low prices. They have more than a hundred types of bottled beer and 6 quality beers on draft. In the summer season you can enjoy five extra taps outside on the roof terrace.

Schouskjelleren Mikrobryggeri
Address: Trondheimsveien 2, Grünerløkka
Opened: 1 October 2010
Type: Brewpub
Taps: 14
Bottles: 50+
This vaulted ceiling brewpub in the cellar of an old brewery, is currently the leader of the beer pack, with 16 taps (but two are with Hansa pilsner) and a good bottled beer menu, including a great range of sour ales from Cantillon and 3 Fonteinen. Importing directly from Drikkeriget, they've had an amazing list of guest beers on draft, from the US, Italy, England and Denmark. Their own beers have also improved immensly and now get glowing reviews even by seasoned raters. Best time to visit is shortly after opening (4 pm on weekdays), early in the week. It gets really packed here on Fridays and Saturdays. In the winter they have an open fireplace radiating heat at one end of the cellar. Really cozy.

Tilt
Address: Torggata 16 (entrance from Badstugata)
Opened: 21 August 2009
Type: Games and beer bar
Taps: 6
Bottles: 50+
Tilt is located in a former public bath (Torggata bad), it has become a place for gamers and students to hang out, many before and after concerts at the nearby Rockefeller Concert Hall. If you're coming for the beer, come early in the week and shortly after opening hours (they open at 3 pm Mon - Wed). Later in the day and during weekends, it will get packed and noisy. Tilt offers about a dozen beers on tap of which half are industrial beer. But they usually have beer from Ægir, Kinn, Nøgne Ø and BrewDog on draft. No food is served though and they may have loud music, either live or on the stereo.

The Whisky Bar
Address: Rådhusgata 28, Kvadraturen
Opened: 12 May 2010
Type: Restaurant and whisky bar
Taps: 6
Bottles: 30+
The Whisky Bar is a restaurant and whisky bar which opened up next door to and by the people behind The Dubliners Irish Pub. It has a cozy and quiet atmosphere and usually a handfull of good draft beers available - typically from Ægir, HaandBryggeriet, Sam Adams and BrewDog. On week days you'll be pretty much on your own here.




Welcome to Oslo Beer City!

Friday, June 8, 2012

A trip to Ostend

Oostende, or Ostend in English, is a seaport city in West Flanders, between Zeebrugge to the northeast and Dunquerke, in France, to the southwest. With a population of just 70 thousand, a maritime setting with fishing industry and long sandy beaches, Ostend is a popular summer holiday destination for the Belgians. Recently it has also started sporting a pretty good beer scene, which was an added attraction for me when I found myself in Brussels with a couple of days to kill.

Lighthouse at the end of the Western Pier in Ostend.

Getting there

Ostend is the end station of a more or less direct railway line from Brussels. You can get there, without changing trains, in less than one and a half hour. Which is hardly longer than when going to Bruges. And with trains departing hourly from Bruxelles-Central it's both fast, cheap and easy to get to Ostend for a daytrip or for staying a few days.

The railway station in Ostend, a beautiful, baroque style building from just before World War One - a sightseeing target by itself, is located right next to the harbor in Ostend, within easy walking distance from a number of hotels along the Visserkaai and old town Ostend.

General sightseeing

Ostend has a fairly small old town, roughly a square of 0.5 km times 0.5 km - fenced in by the sea to the north, the harbor to the east, the Mercator yacht marina to the south and the Leopold II-laan to the west. Old town is basically where all the fun takes place, so you can easily get around on foot to visit the attractions, stroll along the beaches or out on the long Westerstaketsel - the Western Pier.

Marbi of Oostende on its side in the dry dock.
If you're interested in history it's also worth mentioning that the beaches of Ostend are lined with old bunkers from World War Two, built by the Nazi German authorities as part of their defenses against an Allied invasion - the so called Atlantic Wall. There is also a restored fort from the Napoleonic Wars, which is open to the public and even has a brasserie that is open all days, except Mondays, from April 1 to October 31.

Since June 2007 a free ferry service, the Roger Raveel, takes passengers from the city side to the fish market east of the harbor. On that side you will also find the aformentioned Fort Napoleon as well as the dry docks of Industrielle des Pêcheries - where, on my visit, the fishing vessel Marbo Oostende had almost overturned and destroyed parts of the dock.

If you consider going to Ostend in May, beware that the last weekend of May is when the annual Oostende voor Anker or Ostend at Anchor festival is held. This festival sees the population of Ostend grow from 70 thousand to several hundred thousands. Things will become more crowded and noisy then, with live music competing with the noise of steam driven cars, and there will be a hundred market stalls along Visserkaai, selling freshly cooked seafood, dried or smoked fish, artisanal cheese and produce, clothes, ropes and what not.

Another good reason for coming to Ostend is to explore some of the beer and food places that have popped up the last few years - from beer pubs such as 't Kroegske, Café Bottteltje and 't Eilandje to the highly acclaimed beer restaurant De Bistronoom.

Café Botteltje


Café Botteltje - the biggest beer selection in Ostend.
Located on Louisastraat 19, north in Ostend, Café Botteltje is an English style pub, with heavy wooden furniture and wooden panels on the walls. The beer selection, however, is very Belgian with 13 beers on tap and more than 300 types on the bottle menu. The place also sports a big genever selection, but I stayed with the beer.

During my visit, Botteltje had the refreshing Lefebvre Hopus on draft, as well as the delicious St Bernardus Tripel, La Trappe Dubbel and La Chouffe. The service was surprisingly fast, not typical for Belgium, with a waiter stopping by my table almost instantly when I had drained my glass. That's a big plus in my book. As for the food they served I went for their beer dinner, where each dish is paired with a beer (you get a glass of that beer with the dish). It was really well made, though some of the beer and food combinations were more OK than good.

All in all, if beer selection is what you're looking for - check out Café Botteltje.

De Bistronoom

A great place to go for lunch or dinner is De Bistronoom in the south of Ostend, on Vindictivelaan 22, overlooking the Mercator Yacht Marina. This place opened up three years ago but has already caught the attention of the RateBeer community, earning the restaurant a spot in the short list of the world's Best Beer Restaurants 2012.

De Bistronoom beer restaurant in Ostend.

De Bistronoom is owned by Christophe Pelfrène, the former chef of Ostende Queen, who has got what must surely be the biggest selection of 75 cl Belgian beer bottles - in his own words about 250 types! But he stresses that De Bistronoom is a beer restaurant, not a beer bar, so any RateBeerian who comes asking for a beer will politely be asked to visit one of the nearby pubs instead.

La Corne du Bois des Pendus La Triple 10º
- the only draft beer at De Bistronoom.
As chef for the De Bistronoom, Pelfrène enlisted the help of his girlfriend, Stefanie De Vos, who makes really subtle, regional dishes, nothing too spicy, that goes really well with Belgian beer.

Despite having two small children together, the youngest just a few months old, the two keep the restaurant open and running on all days, except Tuesdays and Wednesdays. They serve lunch from Noon to 2 pm and dinner from 7 pm until 9 pm. There is no a la carte menu because Pelfrène relies on what he can find fresh that day - typically fish fresh off a fishing vessel, before he and De Vos compose the lunch and dinner menu.

What I really liked about De Bistronoom, except for the delicious food and beer pairing - of course, was the relaxed atmosphere and how Pelfrène would come out with each dish, tell us about it and then inform us about the choice of beer. At the end of the night I felt like I was visiting the home of a friend, being served their homecooked food and beer from the cellar and chatting with the owner as if we'd known each others for years.

I just can't recommend De Bistronoom highly enough, this really is one of the best beer restaurants in the world. It's no wonder Chris Lively of Ebeneezer's Pub has asked them over to Maine to cook for him!

't Eilandje

The final place I'd like to mention (I missed 't Kroegske because they closed earlier than I thought) is a beer bar on the east side of Ostend, near the harbor and Visserskaai, in Bonenstraat 5: 't Eilandje.

't Eilandje, which means "the island", opened up in June 2011, so it’s a fairly new pub. But its atmosphere radiates old days, I'd say the 1940s or 50s, from the low, old-style jazz music they play to the decoration in the pub. It’s really a cozy and quiet place to sit down, and the guests are a bit more adult than at other pubs in the area.


Just like at De Bistronoom, a married couple is running 't Eilandje. Both seem very proud of their new place and took time to talk with us and tell us about the place and the beers they've got. They told us they had kept asking Rodenbach to send them kegs of Rodenbach Grand Cru and that Rodenbach finally gave in and now sends them kegs of this delicious beer on a regular basis.

The beer selection is limited, but pretty good. In addition to the Rodenbach Grand Cru they usually have the Goliath Tripel on tap and close to 30 different bottled beers, including St Bernardus Abt 12 and six of the seven trappist breweries (Westvleteren is the only one missing). In the summer season they've got an outdoor area, on the square, where you can sit and smell the salty sea air from the nearby harbor and watch the Ostenders walk by.

't Eilandje is a small but great and friendly beer pub.



Bouillon Airborne Biere Brune at Café Botteltje
- served in the proper earthenware mug.


Photos from the visit to Ostend at Flickr: Botteltje, De Bistronoom, 't Eilandje and Ostend.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Nøgne Ø - 10 years and still going strong

The Grimstad, Norway, based Nøgne Ø - Det Kompromissløse Bryggeri, is the biggest, best known and oldest craft brewery in Norway, celebrating its 10 year anniversary in 2012. This post is a brief account of their history and my recent, first, visit to the brewery.

The tasting room at Nøgne Ø brewery in Grimstad.

The early years

Nøgne Ø was founded by two homebrewers, Kjetil Jikiun and Gunnar Wiig, in 2002 in the small town of Grimstad in the south of Norway. Kjetil, a commercial airline pilot for Scandinavian Airlines, had discovered American craft beers on his many trips across the Atlantic. And that inspired him to start homebrewing in 1997.
Der bodde en underlig gråsprengt en på den ytterste, nøgne ø,
han gjorde visst intet menneske mèn hverken på land eller sjø.
Dog stundom gnistret hans øyne stygt, helst mot urolig vær,
og da mente folk at han var forrykt, og da var det få som uten frykt
kom Terje Vigen nær.
In January 2002, the two registered the name Nøgne Ø - Det Kompromissløse Bryggeri, where the "Nøgne Ø", meaning "Naked Island" in Norwegian, was taken from an epic poem called "Terje Vigen" by Henrik Ibsen. The second part basically means "the no-compromise brewery", informing everyone that the brewers would not make compromises when brewing beer, neither on quality nor ingredients. In May 2003, they brewed their first beer and within a year they had a line-up of beers that included Wit and Bitter as well as American inspired beers such as Amber, IPA, Porter and Imperial Stout.

The first couple of years were really hard for Nøgne Ø, because there was no market for their beers in Norway. Pubs would frequently decline Nøgne Ø's offer, complaining that such beers wouldn't sell. Still, they kept on brewing and offering their beers and slowly gained a foothold in some bars and restaurants. Gunnar was more into British and German styles and eventually left the running of the brewery to Kjetil, selling his shares in the brewery to new owners.

A bottle of Nøgne Ø #100
In 2004, Tore Nybø and his sister Cecilie bought a large post in the brewery, during a critical phase when the brewery had almost stopped because of a conflict between the owners. Fortunately, the Nybøs sided with Kjetil and helped him get the brewery up to speed again. Tore, also a seasoned homebrewer, even helped Kjetil compose and brew his 100th batch - #100, today one of their flagship beers - later that year.

The brewery continued to struggle over the next couple of years, but slowly started making a profit and by the fall of 2005 they had outgrown the garage they had used since 2003. With the help of a new investor they found a new brewery location - Gamle Rygene Kraftstasjon. Located on the border between Grimstad and Arendal, this old hydro electric power plant was leased for ten years and converted into a brewery. And in February 2006 the new brewery was operational.

In Norway things were moving slowly, most beer drinkers and bars still went for industrial lagers and the few decent beer pubs you could find only sold craft beer on bottle, not on draft. What helped make Nøgne Ø better known in their home country was their annual Christmas beers - God Jul - which has won the Christmas beer tests in many Norwegian newspapers, year after year, resulting in many beer drinkers trying a Nøgne Ø beer for the first time.

However, it was through export that Nøgne Ø started making a profit, first selling their beer to Denmark and then, thanks to the Shelton Brothers, to the large US market.

2008 - Nøgne Ø strikes Gold in the US

For the World Beer Cup in San Diego in April 2008, Nøgne Ø submitted beers in several categories, but without very high expectations. The result was an astounding success, they took home two medals - a Gold for their Dark Horizon (First Edition) imperial stout and a Silver for their Porter! It was the first time a Norwegian brewery had won medals at the World Beer Cup, and their success made them a household name in the US craft beer market, leading to higher sales figures and collaboration beers with the likes of Jolly Pumpkin and Stone Brewing Company.

This success came at a time when things were finally starting to change in Norway, by the end of 2008 a number of beer bars in Oslo, Kristiansand, Stavanger, Bergen and Trondheim had erected beer towers with the Nøgne Ø logo on them and started selling great craft beer on draft. It was a watershed, suddenly beer drinkers had non-Lager alternatives when they wanted a draft beer. From 2008 to 2010, the beer scene in Norway changed so dramatically that writing in 2012 it's hard to believe that it once was so poor!

Anyhow, with the Gold medal in their pocket Nøgne Ø became a very popular brewery internationally, not only for collaboration beers (they've brewed with Dugges from Sweden, Tamamura-Honten from Japan and Terrapin from the US, to name a few) but also as a contract brewery. Mikkeller was early on their doorsteps, asking them to brew his Beer Geek Breakfast in the spring of 2008, later he added Beer Geek Brunch Weasel and George to the line-up brewed at Nøgne Ø. Another gypsy brewer to approach them was Christian Skovdal Andersen of Beer Here fame, he had the Mørke Pumpernickel Porter brewed at Nøgne Ø.

Gift from Japan, a wooden sake barrel.

Between brewing beer and touring for Nøgne Ø, Kjetil also spent some time in Japan to learn how to brew sake. He brought that knowledge with him, a ton of Japanese high quality rice and some sake yeast back to Norway and created a small sake brewing plant at Nøgne Ø. In 2010 they released three different sakes, making Nøgne Ø the first official sake brewery in Europe!

2012 - The current situation

As they entered 2012, Nøgne Ø was brewing and selling more beer than ever before, but a couple of tough decisions had to be made. First of all, should they stay or should the grow? The lease at Gamle Rygene Kraftstasjon, which they had outgrown, didn't expire until 2015, so if they decided to stay they could not grow much for the next three years. After much delibaration it was decided to find a new location and construct a larger brewery.

Tore Nybø inspecting new fermentation tanks.
The other tough question was that of the General Manager of the brewery. Despite the successful growth since he was hired in 2010, Haldor Berge had little understanding of the beer scene and the brewing process and Kjetil felt he needed someone more familiar and understanding in that role. In the end, the choice fell on his longterm partner and part-owner, Tore Nybø, who took over the job as General Manager of Nøgne Ø on March 1st 2012, heralding a new era for the brewery.

With Tore safely in the chair, Nøgne Ø is now planning ahead for a large new brewery, which will be constructed in an old boat warehouse - when the current occupants have moved out in the fall 2012. The new brewery should be operational in the spring 2013 and will feature a large tasting room and restaurant for visitors to the brewery.

On my visit to the brewery in April 2012, Tore and Kjetil was busy with a number of projects for the near future. Kjetil was in the process of packing a number of different beers for shipment to the US, where they will participate at the World Beer Cup in May 2012. One of these beers is their unique Red Horizon, a 17% abv strong ale brewed with sake yeast! It will be very interesting to see how that beer is received by the beer judges, perhaps another medal for Nøgne Ø?

While at the brewery I also got the opportunity to taste a brand new beer, Citrus Hystrix IPA, which is an India Pale Ale made for the restaurant chain Bølgen & Moi and brewed with rye, oats, kaffir lime (aka Citrus Hystrix) and tangerine juice! It tasted like no other IPA I've tasted before, fruity and spicy but still with a good hop bite to it. This beer will probably appear on cask at several beer festivals this spring, at least at Haand 2012 in Drammen, Norway.

During the visit, Tore told us that while Nøgne Ø used to export 65% of their beers, only two years ago, they now only export about 25% - everything else is soaked up by the growing Norwegian market. Which is great news for us Norwegians. To keep up with the demand, they've hired an external warehouse where they have installed a number of large fermentation tanks. When they make a new batch of beer, they use a tractor to pull a 50 hl tank of wort up to the warehouse where they pump it onto a tank for fermentation! It's a slow and tiresome job, but it's the only way to make enough beer at their current brewery.

As we're approaching spring 2012, things have never looked so good for Nøgne Ø. They've got a new General Manager, who knows and cares about craft beer, they've got a number of new beers out, the demand for their beers just keep growing and they've got the plans ready for a shiny, new brewery which should start operating in the spring 2013.

Happy 10th anniversary, Nøgne Ø!

Gamle Rygene Kraftstasjon - the current home of Nøgne Ø.

Photos from the visit to Nøgne Ø can be found at: Flickr.

PS. Because of their attendance at the World Beer Cup, Kjetil and Tore will be touring the US in late April and early May, attending Nøgne Ø beer tastings and visiting breweries. Back in Europe, others from Nøgne Ø will man the stands at Haand 2012Copenhagen Beer Celebration and Copenhagen Beer Festival in May 2012.